The perfume pyramid is so 90's
The so-called perfume pyramid is a well-established and known tool to understand how fragrances have been built. One of the first things you come across when choosing a perfume is how notes are divided into the top, middle/heart, and bottom notes. This is an easy tool, yes, but similarly, perfume houses are breaking out of that historic understanding of fragrances and of this evergreen basic.
What is the pyramid?
The historic tool divides notes based on their volatility or how quickly they evaporate. Those at the top evaporate fastest while those at the base linger the longest. Let’s meet our friends...
Top notes
These are the most extroverted notes you smell when first exposed to the fragrance. They say hi immediately and jump right at you. They’re light and fresh, and oftentimes jolly (citrus notes like bergamot or lemon). They are the uber-excited kids and have the shortest life span in comparison to the other notes as they will leave you in a time span from five minutes to two hours.
When comparing it to a gathering, they are the first people you meet. Extroverts who can’t wait to meet new people. So when shopping for perfume, this note will make the first impression and subconsciously influence your purchasing decision. This is also why the industry is highly focused on those first impressions.
Middle & heart notes
The name says it all. They’re the center and heart of the creation. These notes begin to arrive and fully develop within ten minutes and will remain on the skin for approximately three hours. The top and mid notes coexist and hang out together for a period of time. The heart notes dominate the fragrance as the scent continues to mature.
Compare it to the center of the party, the one who celebrates their birthday. They gently greet you with a drink, introduce you to the crowd, and will pop up again to hold a speech. They’re ever-present and the reason all others are gathered.
Bottom notes
These notes ground and add depth to a creation. Providing a fundament, this note appears within 30 minutes and will last for hours on the skin and even days on clothing.
It’s the background music, the soft warm light, and the birthday girls partner, who orchestrates that all is in place.
Modern perfumery works without the perfume pyramid
Gathering notes based on volatility has been a historic tool for most of the existence of creating fine fragrances. Meanwhile, though, modern fragrance houses have transitioned away from it.
Some perfumes may fully lack top notes, while others delicately design them as the purchasing power and extroverted characters. Other houses may focus on building a family of fragrances that lets base notes shine through. And others, like Molecule 01, use one single note, bottle it, and call it a perfume.
Think of the party again. Sometimes, you had a rough day and simply want to get things off your mind. You decide to focus on new faces that don’t know your story and chitchat away the negativity of the earlier day. You seek bright and light conversations. And other times, you’re excited about the birthday girl and want catch up about the latest job interview. You seek to connect with the soul of the evening. And other times, you feel more socially awkward and just want to watch, observe, and be of service when the empty bottles keep stacking up on the tables.
"Some creations take you on a long journey, in which tops are gently followed by heart notes which then slowly simmer away and the bottom notes introduce themselves. And other perfumes are like a short Insta bio: crisp and clear. No need for more than 20 characters"
Some perfumes take you on a long journey, in which tops are followed by heart notes which then slowly simmer away and the bottom notes reveal themselves. And other perfumes are like a short Insta bio: crisp and clear. No need for more than 20 characters.
With my three-step perfume process, we can individualize a perfume and find the unique olfactive vision and signature for your. With out without pyramid. Click here:
